 |
 | QUE CAMBIOS SUGIEREN PARA MEJORAR UN UNIMOG ? |  |
|
KNIGHTMOTORWERKS
| Registrado: 14 Jul 2009 |
| Mensajes: 64 |
| Ubicación: Puerto Vallarta, Jalisco |
|
|
|
|
Publicado: Mie Ago 05, 2009 5:17 am |
|
Mogers
Para nosotros los que recientemente adquirimos un UNIMOG nos gustaria conocer en base a su experiencia en la practica y uso de sus vehiculos, cuales serian las mejoras que creen que han beneficiado la funcionalidad y rendimiento de sus vehiculos ? Desde practicas de mantenimiento hasta cambios mayores. Creo que seria muy interesante si nos comparten sus experiencias y ademas por que creen que se han visto beneficiados con estos cambios. Ojala este tema pueda crear bastante dialogo. Al final de cuentas, todos queremos como poseedores de UNIMOG podernos hechar la mano, sobre todo los que estamos empezando. De antemano gracias y esperamos poder contar con su ayuda.
Saludos
RAUL |
|
|
|
KNIGHTMOTORWERKS
| Registrado: 14 Jul 2009 |
| Mensajes: 64 |
| Ubicación: Puerto Vallarta, Jalisco |
|
|
|
|
Publicado: Lun Sep 07, 2009 3:17 am |
|
Puts... no se amontonen con las sugerencias, no puedo asimilar tanta informacion, me falta capacidad !!
jajajaja !!! Aun asi, saludos !!! |
|
|
|
agustin zamudio
| Registrado: 15 May 2009 |
| Mensajes: 65 |
| Ubicación: veracruz |
|
|
|
|
Publicado: Lun Sep 14, 2009 7:30 pm |
|
una buena es cambiar el purgador manual de la bomba de diesel por uno de gasolina ( en linea por uno electrronico para no acabarse la mano por que si es bastante tardado cuando purgas a mano |
|
|
|
agustin zamudio
| Registrado: 15 May 2009 |
| Mensajes: 65 |
| Ubicación: veracruz |
|
|
|
|
Publicado: Lun Sep 14, 2009 7:31 pm |
|
quiero cambiar el tanque de diesel es un poco complicado pero voy a fabricarme uno de inoxidable yo me dedico al acero pero no he hecho el modelo si alguien tiene fotos de algo o alguna idea respecto al tanque para ganar altura es bien recibida |
|
|
|
Kamikaze
| Registrado: 17 Sep 2009 |
| Mensajes: 4 |
| Ubicación: D. F. |
|
|
|
|
Publicado: Vie Sep 18, 2009 12:03 am |
|
Otra opción es buscar un tanque de material sintético, que traen algunos camiones Diesel, incluso autos Diesel. Podría ser una opción viable y más económica.
Saludos cordiales |
|
_________________ Mi Unimog es mi tercera casa
|
|
Eduardo Pacheco
| Registrado: 09 Mar 2009 |
| Mensajes: 147 |
| Ubicación: D.F. |
|
|
|
|
Publicado: Vie Sep 18, 2009 2:53 pm |
|
Hola:
yo te recomiendo que compres uno de camioneta, que sea de plastico y colocalo debajo de la caja entre los dos largueros, hay suficiente espacio. lo principal es que le das proteccion,
- tambien puedes cambiar resortes, amortiguadores, motor, rines, llantas.
hay varias alternativas dependiendo la aplicacion que requieres.
Saludos |
_________________ Atte. Eduardo Pacheco Paz
Director General
ASTRO MOTORS
www.astromotors.com.mx
|
 | Por la parte de mantenimiento |  |
|
Pericon
| Registrado: 06 Mar 2009 |
| Mensajes: 62 |
|
|
|
|
|
Publicado: Vie Sep 18, 2009 8:02 pm |
|
Aqui les dejo los puntos que hay que revisar y cada cuando para que siempre traigan su Mog al tiro esto es aplicable para todos los 404 y 406 de gasolina.
De verdad haganlo pa que cuando de repente esten en una salida no salgan con que mi camion ya no hace los cambios etc etc.
A mi ya me paso que se me andaba quedando la caja sin aceite y otra vez ya solo me quedaba la cabina agarrada de una tuerca.ç
Maintenance schedule for a 404.1, and service parts for a 404.1 with the M180.928 engine.
Maintenance Schedule: Unimog-S (404.1)
The schedule is based on service intervals of 4,000 kms (2,500 miles). In addition, checks on engine oil level, coolant level (a corrosion inhibitor or anti-freeze should be used all year round), tire pressures (normal: 35 psi - front and rear), tightness of wheel nuts (30 miles after wheel change) and air brake equipment (if fitted) should be carried out more frequently. If the vehicle is only used occasionally, oil changes in engine, transmission and axles should be carried out annually.
1. Drain and replace engine oil every 2,500 miles. Replace
oil filter and seals every 2nd oil change. Before
starting engine after an oil change, turn engine without
ignition until oil pressure is indicated on gauge. Then
start engine. This procedure should also always be
followed if the vehicle has been left to stand for more
than 3 weeks.
If the vehicle is used predominantly off-road, oil
change intervals should be based on the amount of fuel
used since the last oil change (265 US gallons).
2. Check and adjust engine valve clearances between camshaft
and rocker arms with feeler gauges every 5,000 miles:
Engine cold: Inlet: 0,10mm Exhaust: 0,20mm
0.004" 0.008"
Engine warm: Inlet: 0,15mm Exhaust: 0,25mm
0.006" 0.010"
If the clearance is not correct, it must be adjusted by
turning the ball pin head adjuster either in or out as
required. This procedure is facilitated by use of
adjustment tool (111 589 00 01 00). Should the adjuster
be loose on its base (<14.5 ft.lb) - either the ball pin
head or its base or both should be replaced to prevent
rotation and changes to the valve clearances whilst the
engine is running.
If the adjuster screw bottoms out in the base before the
minimum clearance is achieved, the plate in the top of
the valve spring keeper can be replaced with a thinner
one.
3. Clean out fuel filter every 2,500 miles.
4. Clean mesh filter in fuel pump every 5,000 miles.
5. Drain and replace oil in air compressor (if fitted) every
2,500 miles.
6. Check and tighten all manifold and exhaust fittings every
5,000 miles.
7. Replace oil and clean air filter every 2,500 miles.
Weekly if operating in very dusty conditions.
8. Remove and check spark plugs every 2,500 miles. If to be
reused, clean and reset gap to 0,50mm (0.020"). Replace
plugs every 10,000 miles.
9. Check mobility of butterfly valve in exhaust manifold
every 2,500 miles. (DO NOT LUBRICATE!). If necessary
replace bimetallic spring.
10. Check and adjust tightness of all V-belts every 2,500
miles.
11. Check oil levels (EP90) in water pump and fan hub every
5,000 miles. Top-up if necessary. If water is present
in the water pump oil, the seal in the housing will need
to be replaced. Do not block the drain hole of a leaking
pump as this will cause water to accumulate and damage
the bearings in the pump.
12. Check distributor components and breaker gap every 5,000
miles. Inspect distributor cap for cracks and wear.
Check points are not burnt and that gap is 0,40mm
(0.016"). Engine can be rotated by jacking up one rear
wheel with 6th gear engaged and turning wheel forwards to
allow adjustment of gap. The setting should be checked
using electronic equipment to achieve a dwell angle of
36-38. If the vehicle is fitted with braided ignition
wires, it will be necessary to improvise connections to
allow hooking up to electronic test equipment.
Moisten felt in distributor shaft with a few drops of oil
and lightly grease rubbing block and cam. Ensure no oil
or grease on points.
Pack connections of ignition leads to distributor with
silicone grease.
13. Check tightness of screws on fuel lift pump every 10,000
miles.
14. Lubricate choke cable every 10,000 miles with a few drops
of oil.
15. Remove and clean out carburetor every 10,000 miles.
Before loosening from manifold, remove the fragile
mixture control screws from the base. A gasket set will
be required to rebuild the carburetor.
16. Check brake fluid level and brake drum adjustments (cold)
every 2,500 miles. Check hoses and brake lines for
damage and corrosion. Avoid contaminating hoses with
solvents. Check brake pedal has 10mm (0.4") free-play.
Adjust handbrake settings (through hole in rear brake
plate and not the cable) only after brake shoes have been
correctly adjusted.
17. Check tightness of all chassis frame nuts and bolts
including engine/gearbox mountings, suspension components
and axles every 2,500 miles.
18. Check clutch pedal free-play with engine running every
2,500 miles. The clutch pedal must have at least 35mm
(1.4") travel before the release bearing makes contact
with the clutch pressure plate. To adjust, stop engine
and adjust the length of the threaded push-rod as
required. Recheck free-play with engine running until
required travel is achieved.
19. Check operation of differential lock linkage every 2,500
miles.
20. Check gearbox oil level every 2,500 miles. Drain and
replace oil every 10,000 miles (EP80/90). Note that
there are 2 drain plugs.
21. Check axle and hub reduction oil levels in both axles
every 2,500 miles. Drain and replace oil every 10,000
miles (EP80/90). Note that there are 3 drain plugs per
axle.
22. Apply grease gun every 2,500 miles to:
Transmission output ball housings (2)
Swivel (king) pins on front axle (4)
Universal joints of front axle drive shafts (4)
Steering ball joints (6)
Handbrake and control lever shafts
Clutch release shaft on bell housing (1)
PTO shaft joints (if fitted)
23. Rotate wheel and tire assemblies every 2,500 miles.
Check toe-in: +3-1 mm. Try for 0 with vehicle unladen.
24. Lightly spray underside of vehicle with oil to protect
against corrosion every 2,500 miles, shielding all rubber
components.
25. Check oil level in steering box every 5,000 miles.
26. Check oil level in PTO relay housing (if fitted) every
5,000 miles.
27. Check air brake equipment (if fitted) for correct
function and leaks every 5,000 miles.
28. Check drop arm for tightness on steering box every 5,000
miles.
29. Check suspension and steering dampers for leaks and
damage every 5,000 miles.
30. Remove and clean brake drums (use 2 M10 bolts to pull off
drums after shoes have been slackened), check and clean
brake linings (do not use solvents) every 5,000 miles.
Replace linings if worn down to the rivets.
31. Check battery acid level and density every 2,500 miles.
Clean and grease terminals.
32. Check all electrical equipment for correct operation and
headlamp adjustment every 5,000 miles.
33. Check all electrical cables and connections for damage,
tightness and corrosion every 10,000 miles. Check
alternator mountings.
34. Lubricate all hinges on body and towing hitch every 5,000
miles.
35. Check all cab and body mountings for tightness every
10,000 miles. |
|
|
|
CAPIS
| Registrado: 10 Mar 2009 |
| Mensajes: 110 |
| Ubicación: MEXICO |
|
|
|
|
Publicado: Vie Sep 18, 2009 9:03 pm |
|
Esa fue para el capo !!!
para otros solo quedo en poner tanque lleno y cambiar filtros de gasolina y me incluyo!! !!! Ya que he tenido muchos problemas en el cerro por no darle dedicacion en mantenimiento . creo que soy el lider de descomposturas!!
Realmente es buen material el que puso el pericon para revisar y aplicarlo en estos coches.
Me lo han dicho un millon de veces!!!
"DALES TIEMPO Y DEDICALES " SINO MEJOR COMPRATE UN JEEP.
Es feo pero es real.
Cuando armamos la ruta de QUADS y Cross???
saludos |
Ultima edición por CAPIS el Vie Sep 18, 2009 9:04 pm, editado 1 vez _________________ - MB Unimog S 404
.._________
..l____I____l
/ ____ ° ____\
l O (__0__) O l
------------------
|""|===O==|""|
--- _______ ---

|
|
ocg
Invitado
|
Publicado: Lun Sep 21, 2009 6:13 pm |
|
Atención mensaje del sistema: Este usuario ha solicitado la baja de su cuenta y mensajes. Por este motivo el mensaje no se muestra. |
|
|
|
CAPIS
| Registrado: 10 Mar 2009 |
| Mensajes: 110 |
| Ubicación: MEXICO |
|
|
|
|
Publicado: Lun Sep 21, 2009 7:04 pm |
|
OK
ya tengo tu telefono , nos ponemos en contacto y buscamos por las fechas de mediados de Oct.
Antes de que se acaben las lluvias!! |
_________________ - MB Unimog S 404
.._________
..l____I____l
/ ____ ° ____\
l O (__0__) O l
------------------
|""|===O==|""|
--- _______ ---

|
|
ocg
Invitado
|
Publicado: Lun Sep 21, 2009 8:51 pm |
|
Atención mensaje del sistema: Este usuario ha solicitado la baja de su cuenta y mensajes. Por este motivo el mensaje no se muestra. |
|
|
Puede publicar nuevos temas en este foro No puede responder a temas en este foro No puede editar sus mensajes en este foro No puede borrar sus mensajes en este foro No puede votar en encuestas en este foro
|
Todas las horas son GMT
Página 1 de 1
|
|
|
|
|
 |